A long list of human activities explains how this happened. Large and small dams were built; water was diverted; streams and rivers were channelized for flood control and urbanization; logging, deep-pit gravel mining in rivers, agricultural uses of floodplains and hillsides, and urban development all took a heavy toll on salmon and steelhead habitat. We will lose these amazing fish forever unless people change their ways—logger, farmer, engineer, urbanite: all of us.

Individual in-stream projects and classroom salmon-rearing efforts can be beneficial, but a few isolated programs are not enough to save the salmon over the long term. The Endangered Species Act, the Clean Water Act, and other environmental regulations protect them in theory, but cannot address all the actions that degrade habitat and water quality.

Recognizing these sobering facts, many organizations are now focusing on decentralized, community-oriented programs to restore streams and other watershed features essential to sustaining salmon populations. Voluntary incentives are being created to assist industries and property owners in changing their operations to benefit salmon instead of causing harm.

“Fish Friendly Farming” is an incentive-based program developed for grape growers and wineries in the Russian River Watershed. It enables the consumer to participate with the farmer in restoring salmon habitat and spawning grounds. Participating farmers undergo a rigorous certification process. Within a few years, wine made from certified vineyards will carry a “green” or eco-label.

A group of grape growers, environmentalists, agencies, and others spent two years reviewing all grape grower activities, from vineyard development and installation to soil conservation, restoration, management of creek corridors, and water supply and use. For all these activities beneficial management practices (BMPs) were developed, based upon the best science and information available. The application of these BMPs on each farm benefits both the farmer and the fish, and provides the basis for certification.

An example is soil conservation. When fine sediment erodes from a vineyard or other land, it’s a loss to the grower and a problem for the fish, as it clogs spawning gravels and lowers water quality. Using the program BMPs, certified farmers are required to winterize their vineyards by using an array of measures, including cover crops around vine rows and along roads, filter strips between vineyards and streams to catch sediment, careful design and management of road and vineyard drainage, and the use of both emergency and permanent erosion-control measures during wet winters.

Stream restoration gets special attention in the Fish Friendly Farming program. The farmer sets aside and restores a native riparian corridor of sufficient width to sustain fish habitat. To determine what the width should be, hydrologic and geomorphic data are evaluated in detail for the Russian River watershed and the location of the specific farm in that watershed. Native riparian plants are planted along stream channels in the same manner as would occur naturally. Once a creek corridor is restored to a naturally healthy state, the farmer does little to “manage” it except to remove invasive species or use biotechnical methods for bank revegetation after floods.

Farmers prepare a farm conservation plan for use in the certification process. They provide photos of all areas of the farm, plus monitoring information on a yearly basis. In return, they gain recognition for their products, potential regulatory approvals, funding help, and an overall improved agricultural operation. The public benefits from long-term changes in agricultural operations that help sustain salmon and improve water quality.

This innovative farming program hopes to provide cost-shared funding to farmers for expensive improvements such as major creek restoration, road repair, erosion site repair, and relocation of water supply facilities. The farmer is expected to be responsible for management measures for soil and water conservation, reduced pesticide use, removal of invasive plants, and other activities.

“Fish Friendly Farming allows a farmer to learn about the best practices for obtaining improved environmental conditions on the farm while retaining economic efficiency for small family farmers,” says program participant Bev Wasson, a third-generation grape grower in the Alexander Valley and member of the North Coast Regional Water Quality Control Board. “It is a blueprint to assist us and give us encouragement to modify our practices and gain some positive recognition for our efforts.”

Joan Vilms, president of the Friends of the Russian River, says, “Fish Friendly Farming allows for the good farmers to be recognized for their efforts and for the regulators to focus on the real problems.”

The first Fish Friendly Farming class, 10 farmers representing 17 ranches, graduated in May. Two more sets of workshops have been scheduled. Inquiries have come from as far away as Europe. The program is being extended to pear growers in Sonoma County and grape growers in Napa County, and potentially could include other types of crops.

So, support salmon and their rivers: Drink certified wine (but never to excess).

For more information on Fish Friendly Farming contact program director Laurel Marcus: (707) 869-2760; e-mail: laurelm@ix.netcom.com.